Some users requested to share my list of recommended romhacks for Gen I & II in another post. I'm doing this because if more people are interested, they will have an easy way to locate links. I'm not a huge fan of making this kind of post because people don't give a sh.t or downvote but if it's to please two or three users, fair enough for me.
I only play the first two generation of pkmn and I have played both games my entire life. Why? Because when I was a stupid kid the first gen impacted so hard in my gray matter and even along the years I never abandoned it (specially using different GB color palettes, for some reason this feature always reset to zero my boredom), now I'm on my thirties and makes me feel in touch with the kid I'm not anymore. Some years ago I started playing an insane amount of randomized runs with speedchoice, so at a certain point you will end diving around Github or PokeCommunity forums and finding really good projects that are remarkable if you share that interest, so I started creating a list of the best ones plus the links to follow and/or download the IPS patches.

ROMHACK LIST

• Pokemon Green in English https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/876/  
• Pokemon Red and Blue Full Color Hack https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/1385/

 

• Pokemon Red★ and Blue★ https://github.com/Rangi42/redstarbluestar  
• Pokemon PureRGB https://github.com/Vortyne/pureRGB  
• Shin Pokémon Red, Blue, Green, Red-JP, & Blue-JP https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=427398  
• Pokemon Red++ https://github.com/JustRegularLuna/rpp-backup  
• Pokemon Blue Kaizo https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=322127  
• Pokemon Brown https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/134/  
• Pokemon Red and Blue Deluxe https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=360339

 

• Pokemon Factory Adventure https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=441393  
• Star Beasts Meteor Version https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/7026/

 

• Pokemon Green Beta Helix Chamber Hackrom (Strength Fix) https://archive.org/details/pokemon-green-helix-chamber  
• Pokemon Super Gold 97 https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=430526  
• Pokemon Gold and Silver 97: Reforged https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=437360

 

• Pokemon Fool's Gold https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=433723  
• Pokemon Quarantine Crystal https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=436807

 

• Pokemon Crystal 251 https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/6088/  
• Pokemon Crystal Ultimate https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=441959  
• Pokemon Perfect Crystal https://www.romhacking.net/hacks/4935/  
• Pokemon Polished Crystal https://github.com/Rangi42/polishedcrystal  
• Pokemon Orange https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=387653  
• Pokemon Bronze https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=280588
• Pokemon Bronze 2 https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=370991  
• Pokemon Prism https://www.reddit.com/PokemonPrism/  
• Pokemon Crystal Clear (bynine) https://www.pokecommunity.com/showthread.php?t=361462
• Pokemon Crystal Clear (ShockSlayer) https://discord.gg/tskaCr2

 
I have no interest in Gen III and forward. I tried several times but is not for me (just a matter of taste). I never really understood why a franchise that push players to catch everything have a lot of useless pkmn with horrible stats in every release, something that happened since Gen I but it was getting worse and worse after Gen II. I don't like the split of Special, Nature or Abilities. Anyways, if you know another interesting projects related to the first two and remarkable enough to be a part of this list feel free to share, perhaps I missed something.
Each one of them are worth your time. Said that, over all of them I recommend Super Gold 97 because it's the second generation we almost had (thanks to Spaceworld leak) and closer to Gen I than II in several aspects. The only flaw of that particular romhack it's the lack of access to Move Tutor and FlamethroweThunderbolt/Ice Beam, making some cool pkmn that were trashed in official Gen II release still decent. One big example it's the access to Eevee and Eevolutions but run a Jolteon (one of my favorite ones) or Vaporeon without those moves, relying in Thunder or Aurora Beam.
You can use a flash cart to play those romhacks on your modded GBC or GBA like I do. I don't share anything related to Randomizer, Speedchoice or Key Item Randomizer because is not difficult to find but kind of obscure in terms of how their creators want to share it around internet (worried about Nintendo and their stupid way to treat fangames). One streamer has all this stuff posted on his Discord (if you're into this you will know him). Randofuser it's easy to find.

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Item Name:	Omega Speedmaster Speedy Tuesday ST1 LE
Price:	$13,300
# of Spots:	100 @ $133/spot
Approval:	https://mod.reddit.com/mail/inprogress/18cksw
Price Justification:	10/05/2022 $12500
Price Justification:	09/10/2022 $13,525
Price Justification:	06/28/2022 $13,250
Price Justification:	03/2022 $14500
Call spots?	Y
Spot limit per person?	No
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA only
Timestamp/pics:	Timestamp and pictures
Escrow:	ronindog for threadandsteel
Description:	Used Omega Speedy Tuesday ST1 Speedmaster. Model number is 311.32.42.30.01.001. MOvement is the Calibre Omega 1861 with a Domed Hesalite Crystal, 42mm, Superluminova Dial, 50 meter WR, and 48 hour power reserve. Comes with the original brown leather strap, black and white striped nato strap, original box, papers, watch roll, strap changing tool, info booklet, factory service booklet, and a 1479 bracelet that was purchased separately.
Omega Website Description	Celebrating the 5th anniversary of #SpeedyTuesday, this makeover of the 1978 Speedmaster “Alaska Project III” is anti-reflective and easy-to-read with a matte-finish case and large radial numerals on the subdials. The "reverse panda" style sets white opaline silvery subdials against a black dial, encircled with a black aluminium bezel ring. The applied vintage OMEGA logo is rhodium-plated, the hour markers coated with Super-LumiNova and all markings and subdials are coated with luminescent ink. There is a central OMEGA logo on the domed hesalite crystal. The screw-in caseback is encircled by the words SPEEDY TUESDAY ANNIVERSARY - A TRIBUTE TO ALASKA PROJECT III as well as the Limited Edition number (X/2012). Circling the caseback is the word RADIAL. The watch has a vintage brown leather strap and is delivered in a special watch roll containing a spare NATO strap. It is powered by the OMEGA calibre 1861. The watch originally sold out in 5 hours. This also will come with an Omega 1479 Bracelet that I sourced after I purchased the watch.

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
Number of vacant slots: 0
Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
1 CremCity PAID
2 cardsfan24 PAID
3 cardsfan24 PAID
4 Dudemanbro88 PAID
5 NAbsentia PAID
6 AbsolutusVirtus PAID
7 Ludi415 PAID
8 Darkmawster PAID
9 Dudemanbro88 PAID
10 Ludi415 PAID
11 Ludi415 PAID
12 BiaxinXL PAID
13 Ludi415 PAID
14 Ludi415 PAID
15 UCLAcruiser PAID
16 Dudemanbro88 PAID
17 Ludi415 PAID
18 Sfiinx PAID
19 lnTheBleakMidwinter PAID
20 clikeness PAID
21 Dudemanbro88 PAID
22 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
23 shlemazel PAID
24 ProofDevice PAID
25 IroncladKoi PAID
26 clikeness PAID
27 clikeness PAID
28 ih84noil PAID
29 clikeness PAID
30 s1n3_n0m1n3 PAID
31 Dudemanbro88 PAID
32 Dudemanbro88 PAID
33 ParkAndBeacon PAID
34 AstronautLawyer PAID
35 MniJP PAID
36 BiaxinXL PAID
37 Dudemanbro88 PAID
38 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
39 AbsolutusVirtus PAID
40 CBJGameWorn PAID
41 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
42 Ludi415 PAID
43 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
44 Ludi415 PAID
45 Riveranl4249 PAID
46 lbjazz PAID
47 clikeness PAID
48 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
49 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
50 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
51 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
52 ProofDevice PAID
53 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
54 turtleslikeyoutoo PAID
55 XwoeX PAID
56 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
57 ScottieJ81 PAID
58 MDecimusMeridius PAID
59 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
60 Sfiinx PAID
61 supersadpotato PAID
62 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
63 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
64 cardsfan24 PAID
65 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
66 foureyees PAID
67 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
68 turtleslikeyoutoo PAID
69 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
70 NotUrDrugDealer PAID
71 clikeness PAID
72 sturg_j PAID
73 Lentu12321 PAID
74 Hillmanian PAID
75 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
76 eharried PAID
77 kwyjibo_Hb PAID
78 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
79 Dudemanbro88 PAID
80 Dudemanbro88 PAID
81 ScottieJ81 PAID
82 Johnny_Zoo PAID
83 onemany PAID
84 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
85 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
86 clikeness PAID
87 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
88 iammrhoju PAID
89 GAY4GOD PAID
90 aoaks87 PAID
91 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
92 amnonymous PAID
93 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
94 Dudemanbro88 PAID
95 AbsolutusVirtus PAID
96 m0ncl3 PAID
97 clikeness PAID
98 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
99 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
100 Formal_Depth9612 PAID

​

Item Name:	Tudor Black Bay 58 Blue 79030B
Price:	3000
# of Spots:	100
Previous Raffle:	Sep 1 2022 for $3000
Price Justification:	October 25, 2022 for $3175
Price Justification:	October 30th 2022 for $2950
Price Justification:	October 27th, 2022 for $2800
Price Justification:	October 20th, 2022 for 2900 EUR
Price Justification:	October 10, 2022 for $2775
Price Justification:	October 12, 2022 for $2999
Call spots?	Yessir
Spot limit per person?	nope
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA
Timestamp/pics:	ALBUM HERE + CLASSY AS FUCK TIMESTAMP
Escrow:	Yessir, u/phillygoat for the legend u/leezy36
Description:	I won this watch in September, but haven’t vibed with it so I’m passing it along to a new lucky winner. I haven’t worn this watch only once since winning it and am re-raffling in the same condition I received it. Here’s the description from the previous raffle: Bezel and case in great condition with very little minor wear for wearing. Has a very small ding on the edge of the top right lug. Original crystal in excellent condition with no scratches or chips. Keeping excellent time and running great. Bracelet in great condition with little wear. Comes with all links. Comes as a complete set with inner and outer box, warranty card dated 2/2022 (still under factory warranty), plastic tag and booklets.

PayPal Info: Venmo: @Phil-Ackley
Cash App Info: [REDACTED]
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
Number of vacant slots: 0
Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
1 m0ncl3 PAID
2 m0ncl3 PAID
3 Prismatic_Effect PAID
4 m0ncl3 PAID
5 Prismatic_Effect PAID
6 NeighborhoodBrownGuy PAID
7 jsk3 PAID
8 mcmlxxivxxiii PAID
9 Prismatic_Effect PAID
10 CDoggyDogg PAID
11 m0ncl3 PAID
12 No-Flounder7167 PAID
13 fiatjeepdriver_ PAID
14 TheGiggy86 PAID
15 m0ncl3 PAID
16 Prismatic_Effect PAID
17 Gboogie3 PAID
18 Prismatic_Effect PAID
19 TheGiggy86 PAID
20 mcmlxxivxxiii PAID
21 CDoggyDogg PAID
22 aledanniel PAID
23 I_Have_Many_Shrimp PAID
24 Formal_Depth9612 PAID
25 Prismatic_Effect PAID
26 dangerdog1776 PAID
27 luke827 PAID
28 dangerdog1776 PAID
29 ronindog PAID
30 s1n3_n0m1n3 PAID
31 m0ncl3 PAID
32 Prismatic_Effect PAID
33 jsk3 PAID
34 Prismatic_Effect PAID
35 m0ncl3 PAID
36 m0ncl3 PAID
37 mcmlxxivxxiii PAID
38 lawdont-go-roundhere PAID
39 dangerdog1776 PAID
40 armada427 PAID
41 horologyhour PAID
42 clikeness PAID
43 Prismatic_Effect PAID
44 Prismatic_Effect PAID
45 s1n3_n0m1n3 PAID
46 horologyhour PAID
47 m0ncl3 PAID
48 m0ncl3 PAID
49 Prismatic_Effect PAID
50 dandybuckman PAID
51 Wecooldag PAID
52 m0ncl3 PAID
53 Prismatic_Effect PAID
54 Prismatic_Effect PAID
55 m0ncl3 PAID
56 mrcolin17 PAID
57 Prismatic_Effect PAID
58 m0ncl3 PAID
59 dangerdog1776 PAID
60 Prismatic_Effect PAID
61 phillygoat PAID
62 OrbitalGram PAID
63 clikeness PAID
64 clikeness PAID
65 Prismatic_Effect PAID
66 dangerdog1776 PAID
67 m0ncl3 PAID
68 dangerdog1776 PAID
69 dangerdog1776 PAID
70 Maleficent-Oil-9150 PAID
71 m0ncl3 PAID
72 armada427 PAID
73 jsk3 PAID
74 dangerdog1776 PAID
75 m0ncl3 PAID
76 Prismatic_Effect PAID
77 horologyhour PAID
78 Fred011235 PAID
79 m0ncl3 PAID
80 m0ncl3 PAID
81 m0ncl3 PAID
82 m0ncl3 PAID
83 cdjakevas PAID
84 Prismatic_Effect PAID
85 vilenrx PAID
86 Prismatic_Effect PAID
87 SonnnyC PAID
88 clikeness PAID
89 ronindog PAID
90 Prismatic_Effect PAID
91 Prismatic_Effect PAID
92 dangerdog1776 PAID
93 11b1p PAID
94 ronindog PAID
95 Prismatic_Effect PAID
96 dangerdog1776 PAID
97 Prismatic_Effect PAID
98 Prismatic_Effect PAID
99 Prismatic_Effect PAID
100 clikeness PAID

Item Name:	Tudor GMT Pepsi 798830RB Full Set
Price:	$3200
# of Spots:	100
Price Justification:	$3100 sold 9-30-22
Price Justification:	$3600 sold New 9-20-22
Price Justification:	$3900 sold 9-17-22
Price Justification:	$3200 sold 8-24-22
Call spots?	Y
Spot limit per person?	0
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA Only
Timestamp/pics:	timestamp and album
Escrow:	Y people’s champ u/jsk3 for u/Tefl0nDon
Description:	Heres is your chance to get a great timepiece. Tudor GMT Pepsi. Ref 79830RB. 41mm case. Case and bezel in good condition, has swirling/ light scratches on the high polish sides of case. Has a small knick on bottom right lug. Crystal in like new condition with no chips or scratches. Keeping excellent time, winds smoothly and running great. Everything is working properly and functioning as it should, no date issue. Bracelet comes with full links. Bracelet and clasp shows signs of wear from use. No deep scratches or scuffs. Comes complete with inner box and outer box, outlet sleeve, booklets, plastic tag and warranty card (dated 8-2021 and still under factory warranty).

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
*Cash App Info: PP Preferred - PM ME *
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
Number of vacant slots: 0
Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
1 whiteandcrispy PAID
2 CliffTheBRD PAID
3 95hondacivic PAID
4 chanical PAID
5 Dudemanbro88 PAID
6 m0ncl3 PAID
7 imbznp PAID
8 Dudemanbro88 PAID
9 CliffTheBRD PAID
10 mrcolin17 PAID
11 m0ncl3 PAID
12 Dudemanbro88 PAID
13 deadheadz1 PAID
14 Aggravating-Common-3 PAID
15 Aggravating-Common-3 PAID
16 carl_global PAID
17 chanical PAID
18 sturg_j PAID
19 NotUrDrugDealer PAID
20 cfoxtrot21 PAID
21 amnonymous PAID
22 Aggravating-Common-3 PAID
23 chanical PAID
24 JuicyZlat PAID
25 viscin12 PAID
26 CliffTheBRD PAID
27 chanical PAID
28 OrbitalGram PAID
29 tempestatic PAID
30 Dudemanbro88 PAID
31 Dudemanbro88 PAID
32 cfoxtrot21 PAID
33 SonnnyC PAID
34 armada427 PAID
35 mrbkkt1 PAID
36 pendejo268 PAID
37 Dudemanbro88 PAID
38 Aggravating-Common-3 PAID
39 Millertyme208 PAID
40 tempestatic PAID
41 deadheadz1 PAID
42 Scabobian90 PAID
43 OrbitalGram PAID
44 cameronc56 PAID
45 chanical PAID
46 Mcthugget PAID
47 rip93ford PAID
48 Scabobian90 PAID
49 Scabobian90 PAID
50 mrcolin17 PAID
51 Darkmawster PAID
52 viscin12 PAID
53 vgfsirius PAID
54 XwoeX PAID
55 XwoeX PAID
56 Darkmawster PAID
57 mrcolin17 PAID
58 cwithersk12s PAID
59 mrcolin17 PAID
60 chanical PAID
61 vgfsirius PAID
62 tempestatic PAID
63 N79806 PAID
64 Francoiscamp PAID
65 sturg_j PAID
66 Dudemanbro88 PAID
67 la122685 PAID
68 JuicyZlat PAID
69 GiftedBrilliance PAID
70 Francoiscamp PAID
71 SpokPt2 PAID
72 kkocan72 PAID
73 RyanFBaby PAID
74 viscin12 PAID
75 la122685 PAID
76 SpokPt2 PAID
77 JuicyZlat PAID
78 Darkmawster PAID
79 Francoiscamp PAID
80 chanical PAID
81 Dudemanbro88 PAID
82 Aggravating-Common-3 PAID
83 viscin12 PAID
84 Mcthugget PAID
85 Mcthugget PAID
86 N79806 PAID
87 She-Hyucc-Me PAID
88 mrcolin17 PAID
89 Scabobian90 PAID
90 Besak415 PAID
91 OrbitalGram PAID
92 Dudemanbro88 PAID
93 vgfsirius PAID
94 Millertyme208 PAID
95 chanical PAID
96 katio PAID
97 imbznp PAID
98 Scabobian90 PAID
99 Dudemanbro88 PAID
100 viscin12 PAID

Item Name:	Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich 310.30.42.50.01.002
Price:	5700
# of Spots:	100
Price Justification:	10/22 https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=875663 $5500
Price Justification:	9/22 https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=873123 $5600
Price Justification:	9/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/xg4aon/wts_omega_speedmaster_3861_sapphire_ref/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf $5800
Price Justification:	9/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/xf3y55/wts_omega_sapphire_sandwich_31030425001002/?utm_source=share&utm_medium=ios_app&utm_name=iossmf $5900
Call spots?	Y
Spot limit per person?	No
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA ONLY
Timestamp/pics:	https://imgur.com/a/N3oMxrE
Escrow:	n
Description:	Up for raffle is an Omega Speedmaster Sapphire Sandwich. It comes as a full set including all links and cards. It’s in EXCELLENT mint condition. No signs of wear even on the clasp. These are the best iteration of Speedmaster other than maybe the Ed white version. Factory Warranty is dated for 4/22 and comes with the remainder of the balance.
approval:	https://mod.reddit.com/mail/inprogress/18j8jc

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
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Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
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2 Darkmawster PAID
3 bujwazay PAID
4 Darkmawster PAID
5 Darkmawster PAID
6 mrcolin17 PAID
7 ParkAndBeacon PAID
8 Darkmawster PAID
9 GMTtwotone PAID
10 Darkmawster PAID
11 Darkmawster PAID
12 tempestatic PAID
13 arein26 PAID
14 NAbsentia PAID
15 arein26 PAID
16 Darkmawster PAID
17 ParkAndBeacon PAID
18 NAbsentia PAID
19 69stanglover PAID
20 arein26 PAID
21 NAbsentia PAID
22 jsk3 PAID
23 Darkmawster PAID
24 Darkmawster PAID
25 Darkmawster PAID
26 arein26 PAID
27 Darkmawster PAID
28 Darkmawster PAID
29 jsk3 PAID
30 arein26 PAID
31 Darkmawster PAID
32 lovetowel PAID
33 ParkAndBeacon PAID
34 XwoeX PAID
35 bujwazay PAID
36 Darkmawster PAID
37 Darkmawster PAID
38 Darkmawster PAID
39 arein26 PAID
40 jsk3 PAID
41 Darkmawster PAID
42 Darkmawster PAID
43 aloofsavior PAID
44 SoFlaKicks PAID
45 arein26 PAID
46 Darkmawster PAID
47 lovetowel PAID
48 EDCdragonfly PAID
49 Darkmawster PAID
50 br3g0 PAID
51 arein26 PAID
52 arein26 PAID
53 mrcolin17 PAID
54 echardcore PAID
55 Darkmawster PAID
56 EDCdragonfly PAID
57 echardcore PAID
58 aloofsavior PAID
59 Darkmawster PAID
60 Darkmawster PAID
61 kwyjibo_Hb PAID
62 Darkmawster PAID
63 Darkmawster PAID
64 Darkmawster PAID
65 jsk3 PAID
66 VVhiteVVizard PAID
67 aloofsavior PAID
68 thewolfofpaperstreet PAID
69 jsk3 PAID
70 afloodofbeer PAID
71 afloodofbeer PAID
72 arein26 PAID
73 EDCdragonfly PAID
74 Darkmawster PAID
75 jsk3 PAID
76 Darkmawster PAID
77 Darkmawster PAID
78 Darkmawster PAID
79 Darkmawster PAID
80 Darkmawster PAID
81 mrcolin17 PAID
82 GMTtwotone PAID
83 Darkmawster PAID
84 Darkmawster PAID
85 EDCdragonfly PAID
86 aloofsavior PAID
87 jsk3 PAID
88 Darkmawster PAID
89 jsk3 PAID
90 jsk3 PAID
91 jsk3 PAID
92 Darkmawster PAID
93 XwoeX PAID
94 Darkmawster PAID
95 tempestatic PAID
96 Darkmawster PAID
97 Darkmawster PAID
98 jsk3 PAID
99 Kimi7Sauber PAID
100 m0ncl3 PAID

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Item Name:	2008 Rolex Submariner Ref. 16610LV Kermit with Box & Papers and Service Papers
Price:	$17,500
# of Spots:	100 @ $175 each
Raffle Approval Link:	https://mod.reddit.com/mail/inprogress/17sjs4
Price Justification:	Aug 11 - Sold for $18550 - 2008 Complete
Price Justification:	July 21 - Sold for $17875 - 2008 Complete
Price Justification:	Aug 12 - Sold for $17675 - 2010 Complete
Price Justification:	Aug 23 - Sold for $17300 - 2006 Complete
Price Justification:	May 14 - Sold for $17250 - 2006 Watch Only
Price Justification:	Sep 19 - Sold for $16950 - 2007 Complete
Previous Raffle Date	No
Call spots?	Yes
Spot limit per person?	No
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA
Timestamp/pics:	Timestamp + Album
Escrow:	Ronindog for horologyhour
Description:	Fantastic condition stainless steel case with thick lugs. The case shows little to no signs of wear and the bezel is in pristine condition. M-Serial. Excellent maxi dial and hand set. The 8.0” steel bracelet shows no scratches and has light stretch. Includes the original box, papers, manuals, tag. Includes 2018 Rolex Factory Service Papers and Card. Thanks for looking and feel free to message me with any questions!

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
Number of vacant slots: 0
Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
1 s1n3_n0m1n3 PAID
2 BiggWaxx PAID
3 SayUncal PAID
4 ParkAndBeacon PAID
5 SayUncal PAID
6 ronindog PAID
7 Jarekclary PAID
8 OrangeJuliusNo PAID
9 underline_man PAID
10 TheFez531 PAID
11 DollarDollar_Bill PAID
12 proton1305 PAID
13 XwoeX PAID
14 s1n3_n0m1n3 PAID
15 RyanFBaby PAID
16 Riveranl4249 PAID
17 ParkAndBeacon PAID
18 imbznp PAID
19 SayUncal PAID
20 richmas620 PAID
21 ParkAndBeacon PAID
22 eye_of_the_liger_ PAID
23 SayUncal PAID
24 viscin12 PAID
25 BlackHoleEffect62 PAID
26 CharlietheCorgi PAID
27 ParkAndBeacon PAID
28 vkamat PAID
29 BiggWaxx PAID
30 lovetowel PAID
31 jratty13 PAID
32 Crombopulous_Michael PAID
33 ParkAndBeacon PAID
34 SayUncal PAID
35 streetreddit PAID
36 ParkAndBeacon PAID
37 SayUncal PAID
38 bobjacobson PAID
39 TheLibertyTree PAID
40 DollarDollar_Bill PAID
41 streetreddit PAID
42 ColdFlourescence PAID
43 OrangeJuliusNo PAID
44 Hillmanian PAID
45 VanVegas PAID
46 bobjacobson PAID
47 ronindog PAID
48 SayUncal PAID
49 viscin12 PAID
50 cardsfan24 PAID
51 SayUncal PAID
52 wraith825 PAID
53 VanVegas PAID
54 ParkAndBeacon PAID
55 VanVegas PAID
56 VanVegas PAID
57 SayUncal PAID
58 SayUncal PAID
59 ParkAndBeacon PAID
60 SayUncal PAID
61 amnonymous PAID
62 SayUncal PAID
63 Redeezy PAID
64 ParkAndBeacon PAID
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I've already commented this on another thread. But it deserves its own post.
The UK is one of the worst places to date, even for white guys. But especially for Asian guys.
And this is coming from an Asian guy with a British, white girlfriend - who is very lovely btw. No disrespect to her for what I'm gonna say for the rest of this comment.
99 percent of UK white girls, especially middle to upper middle class white girls have MASSIVE egos and set themselves on an extremely high pedestal while looking down on most guys. But of course the working class girls are even worse. Most British girls are highly disrespectful and rude. They are also all very similar as if they came from the same factory. For example 99 percent of them are obsessed with clubbing/drinking and many of them have similar personalities (which I personally don't like) Honestly I think british women are worse than American women because they have even bigger egos, less chill/social, and more stand-off ish if you're a guy who is not in her social circle. Most British white girls only go for white guys and even then many go for a specific type of white guy. In fact, in order to fit into society here at all you need to act like a British "normie". Basically someone who has british humour (which isn't even funny), likes football, likes going to the pub (lol), clubbing, drinking etc. If you don't, good luck making friends with British white people and of course, dating.
They are also probably the most close minded people on the planet. They have complete disregard and will rarely interact with anyone who has interests that aren't the norm or someone from a foreign country (this includes other white people like Europeans).
So honestly there is nothing really good about the UK. The living standards suck (including salary and house/rent prices), the culture sucks and the people suck. And it's fucking boring outside London and other major cities (cities outside London are terrible btw)
If you're an Asian you need to go for a British girl who fits your niche and who are open to Asian guys. They do exist but are EXTREMELY rare. They are very rare in comparison to European white girls and even USA white girls, but they do exist. The UK is an extremely whitewashed country, even more so than the USA. I get along more with Ethnic brits here, European white people and international students from Asia than the local brits.
My advice to any Asians here in University is go for a European girl at your university instead. Not only will they likely have a much better personality than a typical british girl, but they will also be much more open to dating an Asian guy.
Edit: just to add to this read this https://www.thestudentroom.co.uk/showthread.php?t=1510660
This is quite old but basically it's a Chinese guy raised in Sweden who went over to the UK for university. And he noticed how much less attention he got from British girls vs Swedish girls.
So yeah the UK is a shitty country and I can't wait to get out. I can't stand the culture here and most of the people.
Tldr don't take 99 percent of british girls seriously, you'll have better chances with a European girl instead, get tf out of the UK asap.

Item Name:	Tudor Black Bay 58 Black 79030N Full set
Price:	$3050
# of Spots:	100
Price Justification:	$3200 sold 9-22-22
Price Justification:	$3050 sold 9-16-22
Price Justification:	$2950 sold 9-16-22
Price Justification:	$3000 sold 8-10-22
Price Justification:	$2900 sold 8-3-22
Price Justification:	$3050 sold 7-25-22
Call spots?	Y/N
Spot limit per person?	0
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA Only
Timestamp/pics:	album and timestamp
Escrow:	Y numba dos escrow u/jsk3 for u/Tefl0nDon
Description:	Heres your chance to get a great timepiece. Tudor Black Bay 58 Black 79030N. Bezel and case in good condition with very little minor wear. Has hairlines on the high polish sides. Original crystal in excellent condition with no scratches or chips. Keeping excellent time and running great. Bracelet and clasp in great condition with little wear. Comes with all links. Comes as complete set with inner and outer box, warranty card dated 10/2020 (still under factory warranty), plastic tag and booklets

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
Cash App Info: [REDACTED]
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A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
This thread text will contain a list of FAQs and tips/ tricks useful to any new or perspective buyer of a WRX STi. Current owners, PLEASE feel free to post some tricks, tips, or experiences you feel relevant below. Eventually, I will gather together materials for a /WRXSTi wiki. I will be adding information to this thread as I can. I should say upfront that this is to be taken as a guide. The intention is to display objective information that on the whole does not come from my personal knowledge, but rather what I have found to be reliable, trustworthy, and consistent information presented to me by various dealers, mechanic/ performance shops, internet forums, online groups, and real world experience. REGARDING WARRANTIES you must consult your local provider of said warranty service, this varies wildly from place to place be it law or just how that dealer chooses to work, and I cannot promise for any one single point or idea what will be considered- YMMV
We get a lot of potential buyers and posts asking questions such as "how does this look" and "what should I be looking for?" To limit the impact of these questions that do not pertain to the majority of owners, we will be directing all such inquiries to this stickied thread. As such, all questions or inquiries of new and perspective owners will only be allowed here, versus top-level of this forum. To some, this may seem less than ideal, however information on these cars is PLENTIFUL, almost everything has been said or done before and video'd up twice for every year and model of the STi. A quick and basic Google search will likely reveal all you could hope to know about any problem, as such I highly recommend you start there.
WRX vs STi

• First things first- GO TEST BOTH YOURSELF. There is nothing anyone could say here that would override the actual experience of driving these two cars. While very similar, they are indeed quite different. There are many threads and posts and videos about this, not all created equal, but here's a link to a comment that I think does a very good and objective job comparing the two that isn't also something I am typing.- credit and thanks to hahuang65.
• One of the biggest points I would make here is if you at one point in your head wanted an STi, there's really not a lot that will replace it. It is very common for such folks to buy a WRX, enjoy it for a year, then switch right into an STI.
• Power.... Yes, the STi makes a small amount of power over the WRX, though this is not a reason I think to get the STi. Yes, the WRX can have a few modest mods thrown on to surpass the stock powe torque of the STi- but this does only a very small part of what separates these two cars.
• NO, you cannot "make your WRX into an STi." In short, to make the WRX into an STi, you would effectively have to throw another WRX in cost at it as you would need to effectively lift the body off the WRX and drop it onto the drive and powertrain of an STi.

STi over WRX:

• If tracking your car, even occasionally, is something you plan on doing the STi stands head-and-shoulders over the WRX.
• Bulletproof and amazing transmission. The WRX tranny will not like more than 330~ hp/ tq. The "6MT" of the STi is used by many drag racing teams pushing 800-1000hp.
• Rigid chasis/ suspension- the car feels "tighter" and more "in tune" with the road on the whole. While this may make the drive a bit more bumpy, you feel the road significantly better. Particularly if you get one with hydraulic steering.
• 3 Differentials- including a mechanical limited slip diff.
• The STi is tougher to drive well, but as a result is a much more rewarding experience.
• Everything you could want to do to this platform has likely already been done, at least thrice, with videos and online guides to boot. This is slightly less of a factor now that the FA20DIT has been out for a while but still, these are some of the most worked on cars out here.

What to look for in buying a USED STi
User ALIN of IgotaSTi.com's "Checklist of What to look for in buying a used STi"

• look for ANY modifications to the engine bay, presence of such is an immediate warning sign (you should know what the stock engine bay of your desired model looks like before going to buy)
• know what "piston slap" and "knock" are and sound like
• look for detailed maintenance records and all major services
• get a compression/ leakdown check from YOUR trusted mechanic
• 90,000+ miles you NEED a new timing belt and past 120K you will NEED new head gaskets

New Owners FAQ and Advice

NASOIC MASTER FAQ and Guide- contained within is just about every possible topic and issue you could have with these platforms. The following may include repetitive information.
Without further adieu, welcome to the wonderful world of the WRX STi. Subaru Technica International's real-world name stake, who is the performance/ racing arm of Subaru Corp. most well known for their Rally 'legacy'. Speaking of rally, no you did not just buy an actual ready-to-rock rally car. You bought a performance street sports car that has many features that are very well suited to loose surface driving. That being said, these cars stock are missing TONS of modifications in order for your car to even be remotely prepared to do any even mild off roading. Namely supsension, brakes, wheels, and tires- and that's just to get off road and over bumps.

Manual Transmission FAQ and First time Owner info

IF YOU ARE NEW TO MANUAL TRANSMISSIONS, PLEASE READ AND WATCH ALL OF THE FOLLOWING CONTENT. My 2016 is my first manual car. I used the following videos (in addition to a few IRL lessons with friends) and I had a significantly easier time learning and getting comfortable driving a manual. There are LOTS of little things you need to know about driving a manual transmission, especially with turbo-charged engine platforms.
It would massively behoove any new manual transmission driver to watch all of the following videos at least once. I must have watched each twice, and understanding all of the facets and niggles was very beneficial to me learning to drive one and drive one well. It will also help you take good care of your car and drivetrain, as well as very important safety tips.

FIRST, WATCH THIS VIDEO, Engineering Explained's 5 Things to Never do in a Manual AND THIS VIDEO on what never to do in a turbo car there is also this video.

PARKING- ALWAYS leave car in 1st gear and engage emergency break when parking. This is STATED in the manual from Subaru themselves. When parking on a hill, turn the wheels into the curb so that if all brake/ resistance lets go of the car, it will roll into the curb/ sidewalk, and not out into the street.
Learning to Drive a Manual Series:
Matt Farah has a great series of videos on how to drive a Manual for first time users:

• Part 1
• Part 1.5
• Part 3

Engineering Explained ALSO has great videos on the same and some more specific subjects:

• Heel-Toe Driving
• Engine Breaking
• Skipping Gears
• Rev Matching
• Starting in Second

2015 WRX and STi NASIOC Thread of Epic Knowledge
The Tool Kit
Metric everything.

• Trunk kit and On-the-go:

In my 2016 STi, I have a small tool roll that contains all of the tools necessary for most standard maintenance and general access/ troubleshooting in most breakdowns. From this kit I can do a full oil change, access nearly everything in the engine, install gauges, and generally pull apart the majority of the car.
Here is it all layed out.
Listed here: (L to R) Multi-head screwdriver, needle-nose vise-wrench, medium adjust-wrench, oil filter wrench, monkey wrench, scissors, collapsing breaker bar, gearwrench ratcheting wrenches( 19/ 17/ 15/ 14/ 13/ 12/ 11/ 10/ 8mm), small pry bar, small adjustable wrench.
Lower Right- Lug nut key, 1/2" drive bits- 10mm, 14mm long, 14mm, 12mm long, 19mm. Should have a 10 and 11 too. A bunch of allen keys (mostly dependant on your added parts but always useful) and 1/2 drive wrench.
I also have rescue tape, assorted lg/ md/ sm hose clamps, sm and lg heavy duty zip ties, gorilla tape, spare fuses, electrical tape, and a few spare auto-zone lug nuts in this kit not pictured. I also need to add back my wire cutters!

Break-in Period for New Cars/ less than 1000 miles on the block

PLEASE READ YOUR MANUAL. EACH YEAR MAY DIFFER SLIGHTLY, BEST PRACTICES FOR YOUR SPECIFIC CAR CAN ONLY BE ASCERTAINED BY YOU SPECIFICALLY.
General Wisdom:
First 1000 miles: Keep below 4000 RPM, NO full throttle, Stay out of too much boost. Change oil at 1000 miles. Vary your throttle position and try not to cruise too long at one RPM.
1000-2000 miles: You can use full throttle, avoid red-lining/ launching until at least 2000 miles. I personally would continue to vary throttle position and RPM speeds, especially now at higher RPMs (the car does like to be above 3K RPM if you are hammering it)
Change oil at 3000 miles.
Some say to avoid prolonged cold idling, and to drive very gently until engine oil is warm (~175F) which takes about 6-8 minutes in warm weather, and 12-18 minutes. I typically wait 2 or 3 minutes just to let the oil warm a bit and get moving nice and calmly until everything is totally warm. I still do this at 100k miles.

OIL

When in doubt, stay OEM. Subaru's OEM oil runs great through the stock STI motor. STi themselves recommend Motul Xcess 8100 5W40 (gen 2 as of 2021) for performance use, it's in the manual even!
This is perhaps the most important part of ownership, and one of the most common questions and topics especially for new owners. Before I dive into words, some quick points:

• Check your oil every 1000 miles. The average EJ257 eats a little oil every 1K, best to keep a spare thing of oil handy.
• Change your oil every 3000 miles. The stock motor takes 4.5 qts. It is best to buy at least and extra quart to have on hand- but really you should have enough oil for 2-3 changes. These are cars that require you to be preventative and that costs.
• Use OEM Subaru Oil Filters- the blue ones. You can get these on Amazon.
• Remember to change your oil-plug crush washer! The beveled side towards the oil pan.
• 5w30 OEM Subaru oil works great, my 2016 loves it and runs great on it.
• 5w40 Oil is also very common to run in these cars. The most popular two brands would be Motul Xcess 8100 and Shell Rotella 5w40 (yes, the 'diesel truck' one').
• DO NOT USE MOBILE ONE OIL. For whatever reason, these engines do not like this oil. Perhaps it is too thin.
• DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN YOUR OIL PLUG. Once it gets tight with your regular wrench, just make sure it is nice and snug and then add your oil.

These cars are extremely sensitive to oil-related issues. Running your car on too little oil, or going too long between changes and checking, is the fast-lane to a bricked motor. An Air-Oil Separator is highly recommended, see your mechanic for best recommendations. BrenTuning has recommended to me the IAG Competition AOS.
A new oil pickup and baffle plate is also highly recommended. Killer B offers excellent products as well as larger oil pans. The oil pickup in Subaru engines is braised together- which is just basically a shitty friction weld. When these break, your engine stops getting oil. The moment that happens, RIP.

Wheels and Tires

Wheels

• Quick note before we begin, the spare/ donut wheel can ONLY go on the back axle. If you have lost a front tire, you must swap the appropriate side-rear wheel for the front, and mount the spare/ donut on the back axle. Otherwise you will need a new brake caliper too.

Great Tire Comparison Site for the latest and greatest in whatever category
New, these cars almost always come with Summe Performance tires- these WILL NOT WORK in conditions consistently below 40 degrees, and especially not on snow or ice. If you live in an area, or encounter conditions that are for more than half the day below 40F/ 3C, or consistently gets yearly ice/ snow, you NEED winter tires, or at very very least 'all seasons'.
Wheels and Tires seems daunting, but is really quite easy. You need to know Bolt Pattern, Wheel diameter, wheel width, wheel offset. Once you have these, you can then go to picking a tire. Tires are coded and these numbers are how you will pick a tire size.
Different year STis will require different wheels and tires based on lug pattern, brake size requirements, and so on, so it's very important you work specifically according to your Model Year (MY) and take into consideration any upgrades (like larger brakes).
Master Thread on NASIOC of WRX/ STi OEM wheel sizes
Most STis, especially the current models, use 5x 114.3 Bolt Pattern for the lug nuts. (Prior to 2005, they used 5x 100) The STi also requires a rather significant offset and it is very important to keep this number in-line or as close as possible to OEM. Having a massively different offset can increase wear and tear on components of the car like the differentials and AWD system (which is what makes this a particularly big issue). This is also why wheel spacers are generally a terrrible idea. Working against your cars specs can also create uneven tire wear, which is no fun when you are averaging $200/ tire.
Basics for buying a winter tire:

• Thinner is better- this gives you higher surface pressure allowing you to cut through snow to find traction. A thinner wheel/ tire setup is frequently a good direction to go.
  
• Less rim, more tire- you want a good amount of sidewall on your winter setup, as much as can be allowed in the very small space between minimum wheel diameter to cover brakes (18" on 2018+ STis) but thin enough to not scrape/ rub your sidewalls.
  
• SPEED- a lot of winter tires are NOT rated for speeds above 100mph. Please pay careful attention to your winter tires speed rating! There are now "Winter Performance" tires that are aimed more at the sports-car world that give up minimal traits in winter conditions, for significant gains in terms of driving feel/ speed ability.
  

Good tires: Currently, Nokian and Michelin make the best winte snow tires. Nokian has the Hakkapletta R2s, and Michelin the X-ice 3s. These are both on the more expensive side, but are incredibly high quality tires. (I use Michelins and I love them, quieter than the OEM summer Dunlops). Blizzak WS70/ WS80/ WS90 are also popular due to their often cheaper price, but still offer Top-5 performance especially when it comes to deep snow.
AN EASY WAY TO CHECK TO SEE IF YOUR COMBINATION WILL WORK IS TIRERACK.COM- enter your vehicle and wheel/ tire size to find easy matches for whatever you are looking for.
EX.
For my 2016 STi, with stock brakes I chose:

• 2006 OEM STi BBS wheels, 17"x 8", 5x114.3 bolt pattern, +53 offset.
  
• Michelin X-ice3s, 255/45 R17 (I may need to double check this)
  

Brakes

Your exact specs for brakes are dependent on model year. Your wheels may also play a roll in what brakes you can and cannot use- and the inverse may also be true. What is largely the same is that OEM they are all Brembo setups, and are by-and-large extremely easy to access and change, particularly the pads. Stoptech, Hawk, and Mutegi are all excellent and well-trusted brands for brake pads and calipers at reasonable cost.
Flat Irons Tuning has a pretty solid comprehensive breakdown of break upgrade paths.
For the VA series, the torque specs of the front caliper bolts is listed around 114lbs- however this is a translation error, and should be listed at 80lbs. That being said, many still report breaking bolts anywhere past 50. A torque spec was released by a semi-official source that stated with anti-sieze applied, the front caliper bolts can be torqued to 60ft-lbs and the rear caliper bolts to 45ft-lbs. YMMV. I have had success merely making them sufficiently hand tight. They are easy enough to check and thus far I have had no problems.
Having done the full brakes on my car, I cannot recommend enough the first chance you get accessing the two caliper bolts on each wheel (only two bolts holding the brake system on the hub) and putting anti-seize on there. It is extremely common to crack one of the bolts when changing your rotors, so when you do make sure you have at least 1 spare of each size bolt you will be working with (model year dependent). 19mm Front 17mm rear in my MY2016 STi. Caliper bolts can be be hand tightened and I would apply a good deal of force, I do not know the specific torque spec but I applied around what I would figure I applied to the lug nuts- enough force to make sure they ain't moving but not so much that you fuck the parts or threads.

The Clutch

While slightly less so today, the STi has always been what can be described as a "Raw" feeling car. It's very mechanical, you feel apart of the machine, and you are greatly rewarded for your success as you are punished for any shortcomings. This isn't a massively difficult car to drive. It's probably smack in the middle of the road for "learning a manual sports car".
One of the tricky spots, especially for new owners, is the clutch. It's not the heaviest clutch in the world, but it has a rather high engagement point, decently long travel, and being a heavier all-wheel-drive car it takes a bit more throttle to get everything going smooth. Even in motion, particularly in lower gears (cough 2nd cough) can prove challenging to get right.
Learning the engagement point is the most important thing. Start by getting your car rolling into first without throttle repeatedly. Find a nice flat empty parking lot or side street. Take the handbrake off (and use foot brake if necessary to hold the car) Let the clutch up super slowly, eventually you will feel it start to slowly grab, where you need to intelligently monitor the take up from there to get it rolling. Don't use any throttle, if the car starts to bog or jump push in a tiny bit back, and retry. Once you've mastered getting started without throttle, you will learn the engagement point well, and be able to start working throttle back in.
The second tough spot, well frankly, is 2nd gear. 2nd gear in any manual vehicle will always be the biggest PITA to get into from first because it is the largest jump in gear ratios. Don't expect to do this well at first, and even after 30,000 miles, expect some less than smooth into-2nd shifts. There's no magic RPM or throttle amount to use, but you do need to use a tiny bit of throttle upshifting in these cars.

DCCD- Driver Controlled Center Differential

The DCCD is short for "Driver Controlled Center Differential", and is operated via the thin silver switch between your SI Drive module and center cup-holders. The biggest common misconception is that this controls where the car sends powe torque. What the DCCD actually does is controls the torque distribution bias, which is only useful on loose surfaces.
ABSOLUTELY DO NOT LOCK YOUR DIFF ON DRY PAVEMENT- this can and will damage your car. Locking the Diff is only for extremely loose and low traction surfaces. IN GENERAL it is best to leave the car in "Auto", even when doing launches, the car knows what to do best. The only time to really start playing with these settings is on gravel or snow/ ice as it's the only time you will really feel much difference. Even then, many professional and semi-pro drivers leave the car in auto.
A quick tip is if you get a flat and have to use a spare, it is advisable to set the DCCD to fully "open" or rearwards.

SI Drive

The other control this car offers is called the "SI drive" and this refers to the large silver knob behind the gear shift. It has 3 modes, "Intelligent, Sport, and Sport Sharp . This simply controls the amount of throttle you are given. Nothing else.

• Intelligent (I- press in)- "Throttle [opens] more gradually to maximize fuel efficiency, reduce emissions and deliver greater smoothness" it also comes with a little built in "shift advisor" for when it's opportune to shift for best MPG. I would describe it as "mushy throttle."
• Sport (S- twist left)- Balance between keeping the engine in an efficient state as well as allowing access to full performance and guarantees a more even acceleration.
• Sport Sharp (S#- twist right)- Most responsive setting, immediately opens up for direct driver input. Many STi drivers use S# and only S#, and many work a quick right-twist of the SI Drive into starting up their car.

Power and Engine Mods

General advice, don't. At least not right away. These cars are very expensive and sensitive to modifications. Assume any power-train modifications require an immediate tune and driving your car with new modifications without a tune even short distances can be extremely dangerous. The most fun mods you can do without risking damage the engine or needing a tune is a catback exhaust. Axelbacks are even simpler and easier! That being said, if you are near a reputable tuning shop with a dyno, might be worth getting your car professionally tuned for stock levels (ie not trying to gain power), this can help smooth the car out and help it run better, expecially if you have gasoline that is not high quality (Cali/ Nevada/ Az) or it's particularly hot, they will be able to dial the car in to run at safer levels/ timing.
EJ 257 BREAKDOWN AND COMMON POINTS OF FAILURE
Serious power-searches require expert opinion and tuning, as well as a sizeable wallet. It is strongly advised to find a recommended pro-tuner in your area, and have them guide you on your build. This ensures a platform that the people in your area are used to dealing with, and likely have many of the potential bugs figured or known. "E-tunes" are an option, and I would recommend BrenTuning based out of MA for this and I have also heard PhatBotti Tuning is a great E-tuner, but there are plenty of other just-as-good options.

Safe and Recommended First Super Fun Mods!

Mods and accessories that are relatively easy to do, add huge fun and enjoyment to the car, and pose no risk of serious damage or warranty voiding shenanigans.

• Exhaust- AXLEBACK- Portion of the exhaust behind the axle of the car, often just the muffler portion. Most Axlebacks are simply "muffler deletes" whereby they replace the silencers of the OEM exhaust with striaght pipe. IMO this sounds fantastic and isn't too loud while also making you feel like a hotboi/gril. These can also be DIYed easily, and is very cheap.
  
• Exhaust- CATBACKS, this is the portion of the exhaust after the downpipe. So you will be replacing the midpipe (that has a resonator), y-pipe, and the axel-back mufflers. [DSport Magazine](https://dsportmag.com/the-tech/2017-subaru-wrx-sti-exhaust-shootout/] has done a fantastic article featuring a bunch of different CATBACK exhaustS on a stock STI. HKS, Borla, Injen, Cobb, Grimmspeed are a few of the popular names tested here. Youtube has the rest.
  
• 2018+ FOG LIGHT INSTALLATION
  

General Maintenance

• Change your oil regularly every 3,000 to 5,000 miles, and check it every two to four fill-ups. Use the OEM oil filter and oil plug gasket. 5W30 Synthetic oil, or 5W40 in some areas. These engines DO NOT like Mobile One. The OEM oil from Subaru is great, my car loves it. For 5W40, Shell Rotella or Motul XCess 8100 are two of the most common brands.
  
• Whenever you are in your engine bay check ALL fluid levels, and look for any weird leaks or any foaming coming out of the oil/ radiator- this can be the sign of a serious problem.
  
• Wheels depend on model, current generation STis (from 2007~ onward) use 5x114.3 bolt pattern and require at least 17" rims to clear the brakes. On 2018+ models, some 17" rims may not clear sufficiently and you will need to use 18" rims.
  
• As these come standard with Summer Performance tires, you will need a set of winter tires if it is common to drop below 40 degrees at points throughout the year. Easiest path is to go to TireRack.com, enter in your car information, and it will automatically pull up suitable wheel and tire options for you. Nokian R2s and Michelin X-Ice3s are the top winter tires, however there are also performance winter tires in cases like near-Boston-me where we get lots of cold and snow, but it is mostly dealt with quickly to dry pavement.
  
• The Power Steering in most STi's is a Hydraulic system. This is key to the way the car feels and drives. Hydraulic systems love to leak, and if you ever notice you are low on Power Steering, best to start looking for a leak. You can top off your power steering fluid using any high quality ATF (automatic transmission fluid) available at any auto-store.
  
• I highly recommend removing the caliper bolts on any new STi and adding dobs of anti-size (Permatex) to them to prevent the bolts from breaking off in the calipers down the road when you need to change rotors.
  

Quick/ Interior Upgrades

• There is often an annoying noise that comes from the AC compressor fan beneath the glove box in the passenger footwell. This can be remedied using a Crosstrek part/ cover panel. Here's a link to what Subispeed offers to fix this, it may be available elsewhere.
  
• An Axleback exhaust/ muffler delete is a lot of fun, easy, and a great way to get a little more noise out of your car. They can be had for as little as $150~ (I got mine used for like $80) and really does help to scratch some of the "I NEED MODS NAO" itch.
  

Everything Accessport

Accessport Knock Monitoring
NOTE: This section will be purely about stock engine monitoring on the Accessport in particular as it relates to Feedback Knock Learning, and DAM. This section is NOT about tuning on an Accessport.
COBB Tuning's Accessport is probably one of the most popular initial additions to an STi. I would subjectively say it is also probably one of the most important for monitoring your cars health. The Accessport, when boiled down, effectively is a monitoring device to allow you to see more details about your engine's performance, standings, and ECU settings.
USED ACCESSPORT WARNING: Every Accessport, once "mated" to a car, is permanently attached to the ECU of that particular vehicle, and must be unmated WITH THAT VEHICLE in order to be used with a new vehicle.
Before I dive deeper myself, here is a direct link to COBB's page on Acccessport Feedback/ Knock monitoring. They do a great job explaining it in basic, but accurate terms.
The TL;DR is:

• The 3 most important figures for you to monitor on your Accessport would be first and foremost DAM (Dynamic Advantage Multiplier), Fine Knock Learn, and Feedback Knock. Fourth-most would probably be AF ratio.
  
• DAM The most important display to monitor in your STI is the DAM. The TL;DR of DAM is that you always want a DAM of 1. If your DAM drops below 1, this may be the sign of a number of issues but isn't necessarily a massive problem- read COBBs page for more. Sometimes this can be a result of bad gas and can be fixed with a change of tuning (detuing from a 93 tune to a 91 tune on 93 pump gas for example). When your DAM is less than 1, you are seeing how much timing the computer is allowing the engine to run.
  
• Fine Knock Learn - this is essentially your CPU having learned from past perceived knock events and applying the appropriate timing correction at a given time. Seeing ~-2.5 degrees of correction is normal, and not a specific sign of concern. Watch for: FKL -2.8 or worse during WOT, -1.4 or worse during large portions of a WOT run, or -4.2 or worse at low throttle/ cruising speeds.
  
• Feedback Knock Correction- this is "live" version of Fine Knock Learn, showing real-time corrections applied to engine mapping in response to percieved noise. Watch for FKC of -4.2 or worse at normal driving/ cruising, FKC of -1.4 in the middle of a WOT run that is consistent from run to run, and/or FKC or -2.8 or worse WOT when NOT mashing throttle.
  
• Knock Sums/ Counts- Honestly, don't bother using these and scaring yourself, the AP/ Computer will take almost any sound significant enough to seem like knock to be knock- this includes regular acceleration/ RPM noises and hitting potholes. These values are only relevant under specific conditions, and otherwise should be ignored. Just for kicks I have mine Knock Sum for Cyl 4 on the past few days, and I get about "120 knocks" every hour. My car does not have anything wrong with it.
  

The Subaru Anxiety Port Warning:

Many, expecially tuners, refer to the Accessport as the "AnxietyPort" because so many people leave it on, and watch all their "knock events" FBK going to -2.80/0.00 and a lot going on in their FKL like -3.00/0.35. This is NOT reason to pull over and start crying while fumbling to dial your tune mechanic. It's the cars computer doing what it was designed to do. If the car feels fine, chances are it is. Subaru's car computers are extremely sensitive to knock sounds, and I shit you not the right loud music, exhaust note, or pothole can cause the system to think there as a knock event. As long as you don't see numbers that correlate directly to something bad (like FBK constant of -.280/0.00 under WOT or hitting -4.00/o.00 regularly while driving) it's likely to be your car being it's timing happy self.
DAM drops, while imposing, when no FBK is present to a serious degree or repeatable degree, it is likely the car having detected something it didn't like and being SUPER CAREFUL by pulling timing and then relearning the areas little by little which you will see as positive FKL values. DO NOT RESET YOUR CAR OR TUNE WHEN YOUR DAM DROPS. Your car is (more likely) experiencing a false-flag knock event it's being careful of, or you got something like bad gas. If you car feels normal and fine, it almost certainly is. Fill up with trusted 93 premium gas (my go to are official Mobile 1 stations, I've had bad luck with Shell) and drive normally.
Other things that can drop DAM include: weak/ dying battery, faulty alternator, big speakers/ stereo systems, general loud music in stock systems, speedbumps and potholes. You may have also just accelerated poorly or with too much throttle at low RPM. If it's not reoccurring, consistent, or you otherwise would have notices without the AP plugged in- ignore it.

BIG BOI MODS

• BLOW OFF VALVES- WHEN AND WHEN NOT TO USE BOV BLOW OFF VALVES and the differences between BOVs and BPVs

FAQ

My engine bay makes weird, flappy/ rattling sounds at low RPMs, is this Rod Knock or Piston Slap?
NO. EJs are loud engines, particularly the 257, and particularly the oil PCV valves, which are responsible for a lot of the sound you hear if you are coasting at low speed/ RPMs where they become prevalent.
There is a loud whining sounds when I downshift or start to rev-match, should I be concerned?
NO, probably not, you are almost certainly hearing the synchros in the gear box whirring up to match speeds inside the gearbox assembly.
What oil should I use?
... Subaru OEM or refer to your manual. Motul XC8100
*What oil filter should I use?"
Subaru Blue OEM filters.
Does /X ENGINE PART/ need a tune?
To be safe, assume YES. Especially if it involves the actual powertrain of the engine. The ONLY exception is a catback/ axelback.
Do I have to use 91/ 93?
YES. In fact, most recommend 93 only. If you are in Arizona, California, Oregon, Washington, or a lot of the west coast, where the gas is notoriously bad, be very careful and run the highest octane you can find (up to 93 REGULAR.)
Can I use Ethanol/ Race Gas?
NO. First, your car's engine must be tuned for it. Second, E/ Race gas will eat through and destroy your OEM fuel lines and pump, you will need to upgrade the whole system first.

FACTORY RESETS and TROUBLESHOOTING

I will try to accumulate all of the secret menus here over time for each model year. These can be used to help fix bugs with the very wonky head units, particularly from the 2015-2018 model years, which are loaded with all sorts of inadequacies and bugs.
Other useful resources include:
www.NASIOC.com (North American Subaru Impreza Owners Club, largest online forum for Impreza WRX/ STi)
NASIOC MASER FAQ and Guide
www.cars101.com (Outstanding resource for detailed technical information on most any modern Subaru (2012+)
www.clubwrx.com
www.IgotaSTi.com
Facebook also has a large number of WRX, STi, and related groups. These include groups for specific parts of the country/ world, specific years, specific models, and so forth.
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thank you to users SwitchUps, ItselfSurprised02, Fiasko2, ExtraThigg, V1scera, SockeyeSTI, ebihn14, he8c6evd8, Sunburn79 and all other contributors great and small as this continues

Last Updated

19 September 2022

ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 Models Affected

• GA402RJ
• GA402RK

Breaking News

As of 16 September 2022, ASUS has pulled BIOS 313 from MyASUS, Windows Update, and their website. They have made no formal announcement, but this is as close to an admission that 313 is not to be used and is no longer supported as you will ever see ASUS make. ASUS released BIOS 313 on 3 August 2022 and repeatedly denied that there was any problem at all, even going so far as to blame us for end user error on this issue up until now. We shall see what happens next.

What Should I Do?

1. If you are on 313 and you've followed my pathway already, do nothing.
2. If you are happy with your experience with your 2022 G14 currently, do nothing.
3. Otherwise, revert to 312 now.

Introduction

Hi everyone, I'm u/ispeakuwunese, previously the only guy on this subreddit who was having a good experience with BIOS 313 for the 2022 Zephyrus G14 on Windows (if you are a Linux user, then install BIOS 313 without any hesitation -- it will fix the rampant AMDgpu crashes and many issues related to SoC power regulation). I've gotten asked so many questions about this topic that I've decided to make a single post to just point people to in the future. If you have any questions, comments, concerns, or things you want to add, please send them my way!
This is a living document and updates will happen rapidly -- some major, some minor. There have been at least 20 revisions I've made since I first posted this, for instance. I encourage you to keep checking in and take note of the Last Updated section.

But First, a Sanity Check

1. If you are on BIOS 313 and not having problems, don't do anything.
2. If you are on BIOS 312, do not upgrade to BIOS 313.
3. If you are on BIOS 313 and having problems, revert to 312 and be happy.
4. Do not install stock AMD drivers, whether GPU or chipset.
5. Do not pass go; do not collect $200.
6. ...
7. Still here? Still crazy enough to live the 313 life? You must like pain. Let's go, then.

And no, I'm not joking about the above. For the vast majority of users, staying with 312 is the right thing to do.

Why the Sanity Check?

BIOS 313 causes large-scale power phenomena in Windows, and the majority of users on this subreddit who have updated to it suddenly find their G14s running 30-40W at idle. This is a real world battery life of 1-2 hours, and that's provided that all you do is idle the machine. Investigations have revealed a number of troubling reasons why this phenomenon might occur (see '313 Theories' below), but the long story short is -- we have a BIOS that turns our high-performance, high-battery-life gaming laptops into low-end gaming desktops. Other significant phenomena reported include:

• Total GPU instability
• Hard crashes when attempting to change power modes
• GPU performance regressions in excess of 20%

ASUS is aware of these issues, but apparently does not consider them to be critical, or even duplicable. This leaves those of us who have these laptops in an ... interesting situation, to put it kindly. Finally, ASUS is actively pushing this BIOS hard, and even makes it a mandatory update in Windows Update. There are ways to block all of these pushes from occurring, but for the vast majority of users it will be too late -- you will wake up and you will have 313 whether you want it or not.

Why 313 At All Then?

You might be like me, and enjoy living on the bleeding edge at all times (happy Pixel 6 users fall into this category usually). You might be a hardcore Minecraft (non-raytracing version) player, and want the 100+% increase in FPS brought about by the AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition 22.7.1 driver and beyond. You might be having serious power problems even with 312, and feel like you have nothing to lose. Or you just might be curious (in which case, if you happen to be a cat, this might kill you). Finally, and most significantly, you might be a Linux user -- in which case 313 fixes the AMDgpu crashes that have been plaguing you and also fixes Linux power regulation. I want to reiterate: I am not trying to convince you to go to 313 if you're on Windows -- quite the opposite. If you simply want the experience that ASUS promised you, then don't read any further -- just revert to 312 now. If, on the other hand, you happen to be on 313, for some reason don't want to revert, and want to make the best of your experience, read on ... and prepare for pain.

Instructions

Prerequisites

• A 2022 ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (GA402RJ or GA402RK), running
• the dreaded BIOS 313, and
• the not-so-dreaded VBIOS 9.6.x (available through MyAsus).

Driver Installation

1. As a necessary precaution, go into Armoury Crate and set your Power Mode to Windows and your GPU Mode to Standard (MSHybrid).
2. Install the stock AMD chipset drivers.
   1. As of 29 August 2022, this would be version 4.08.09.2337.
   2. If you do this, you may no longer be able to gracefully roll back to BIOS 312. Consider this your point of no return.
3. Reboot.
4. Install either the latest AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition drivers or the latest ASUS customized Radeon drivers.
   1. The latest AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition drivers, at this time, is the 22.8.2 optional release. I recommend these.
   2. You can also try the latest ASUS customized Radeon drivers (dated 13 September 2022). If you absolutely need Radeon Software, this would be your pathway. I don't recommend this though.
   3. Either way, be absolutely sure to tick the Factory Reset option and the Drivers Only Install option when installing. Indeed, for RDNA architecture Radeons, it's good practice to always do a Factory Reset when installing.
   4. If you are using the ASUS customized Radeon drivers, you can also install Radeon Software using the ASUS sanctioned Windows Store method.
5. Reboot.
6. Ensure that there are no error messages or failed PCI Bus device messages upon restart. If you see the latter, this is a fairly common issue with RDNA architecture Radeons, and usually means that you didn't choose the Factory Reset option when installing. Just reinstall the driver, and this time remember to choose Factory Reset.

Power Tuning

1. In Armoury Crate, make sure you have set Power Mode to Windows.
2. In Armoury Crate, make sure you have set GPU Mode to Standard (MSHybrid).
3. In Windows Control Panel, choose to modify the Balanced power plan, and choose to Force Power-Saving Graphics when on battery.
4. (optional) In Windows Control Panel, choose to change the lid close behavior to hibernate, both on battery and on AC power.
5. In Windows Settings -> System -> Power & Battery, make sure your Power Mode is set:
   1. Best Power Efficiency when on battery.
   2. Maximize Performance when on AC.
   3. There will be no "on battery" or "on AC" options -- the system will remember your choices for the battery/AC mode you are on. So get on battery power, and choose Best Power Efficiency; then get on AC, and choose Maximize Performance.
   4. If this is too complicated, just select "Balanced" for everything instead.
6. Never use any of the Armoury Crate Power or GPU modes. Not under any circumstance. Not with this BIOS.
7. When you are on battery power: (a) if you have AniMe Matrix, always disable it; (b) always disable keyboard backlighting unless absolutely necessary; (c) set your screen brightness to as low as you can tolerate.
8. It is important that you perform what is known as a hard reboot of your system at this time. This won't affect your Windows install -- it will simply re-initialize hardware states across your machine.
   1. Shut down your OS.
   2. Unplug everything including all power.
   3. Hold the power button for 20+ seconds.
   4. You will see the laptop come on. Keep holding the power button.
   5. Wait until the laptop completely shuts off again.
   6. Restart your device.
9. When you come back up, wait until all bootup processes are done, and measure your power drain using something like BatteryBar.
10. (optional but recommended) In Windows Settings -> Display -> Graphics, you can force specific processes and executables to use a specific GPU. This setting is now honored, and you should use it over time to lock things down even further. A web browser, for instance, has no business ever running on the discrete GPU.

About BatteryBar and Windows 11

When you install BatteryBar, if you are running Windows 11 the standard installation will not work, as the Taskbar integration no longer works. You have to select the Floating method rather than their standard and recommended method.

Disabling Adaptive Brightness / VariBright Without Radeon Software

1. Follow this and also this.

Results

Disclaimer

The following results are mine and no one else's unless otherwise noted. YMMV. You might get better than this. You might get significantly worse than this. I do not guarantee that you will get results like mine in any way, shape, or form.

Power Draw

For me, this results in an idle power draw of anywhere between 6000-9000mW, biased toward the lower end of that spectrum. I have been able to routinely use my laptop on battery power for full workdays when necessary. I estimate continuous YouTube playback at anywhere between 6-7 hours. Temps fluctuate between 30-50C on battery, depending on load. YMMV.

Gaming Performance and Other Benchmarks

Note 1: all of the below experiences are with BIOS 313, AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition 22.8.2, and AMD Chipset 4.08.09.2337. Further, all of the below experiences are extensively load-tested for multiple hours of gameplay.
Note 2: all of the below experiences are at 2560x1600, no FSR, except where noted.

All Games

• It no longer matters whether I plug in to the right or to the left USB-C port (I have the Razer Thunderbolt 4 Dock, and my video goes out through there). In fact plugging into the left USB-C port (the integrated graphics) allows me to significantly power save even on AC whilst preserving 100% of the discrete graphics performance in games.
• I have been able to reproduce the above finding with every single game I list.

3dmark

• Credit: u/Summanis
• Time Spy: 7950
• Fire Strike Ultra: 5030
• Fire Strike Extreme: 9299

Commentary: these scores are exactly at the median for all reported scores for the 2022 ASUS ROG Zephyrus G14 (GA402RJ). This means that there is no performance degradation between 312 and 313 in this benchmark.

Borderlands 3

• Graphics Preset: High
• Initial Benchmark: 60 FPS
• Average of Subsequent Benchmarks: 55 FPS
• Sustained Performance: In line with benchmarks. I have played this game for hours on end with no perceptible difference in performance over time.

Cinebench R23.2

Note: This testing was done in two different settings: I did the Multi-Core and the Single-Core tests from a fully cold state, and then I did them after the laptop was fully thermally loaded.

• Cold Runs:
  • Multi-Core: 11241
  • Single-Core: 1479
• Hot Runs:
  • Multi-Core: 10978
  • Single-Core: 1475

Commentary: The sustained performance of the G14 under load is excellent in this testing. You can see that the single-core test score is within margin-of-error, and therefore there is no degradation. You can also see that while there is performance degradation in the more thermally challenging multi-core test, the difference is small. Finally, these scores are within the margin of error as compared to my scores on BIOS 312 with ASUS drivers.

CS:GO

• Credit: u/Radiant_Candidate_31
• Graphical Details: 1280x1024, 4x MSAA, all low settings
• FPS Benchmark (Workshop) v1.01 - 1:42:765:
  • Run 1: 223.80
  • Run 2: 218.70
  • Run 3: 220.27
• Botmatch, Mirage: 180-340 FPS
• Botmatch, Dust 2: 120-340 FPS

Destiny 2

• Graphical Preset: Maximum
• Average FPS: 79.4
• Lowest Observed FPS: 43

Commentary 1: Destiny 2 is a game whose performance changes depending on the situation, on a second-by-second basis. These numbers are from an hour of gameplay in which I began a new character, played through the first few introductory mission, went to The City, then went to my established character (from, uh, 5 years ago) and did a few public events. Some of those public events were crowded, and there were players everywhere. The lowest observed FPS happened only once, for a split second; I spent my time uniformly above 60 otherwise.
Commentary 2: Oh man it's really been that long since Destiny 2 first came out? Now I really feel old ...

Elden Ring

• Graphics Preset: Maximum
• No benchmark data, but I can confirm sustained smooth performance even in 12+ hour long marathon sessions.

Final Fantasy XV Benchmark

Note: This benchmarking was done while the laptop was already thermally loaded, and should be considered what you can expect on sustained play. I left the Run 2 settings looping for 3 hours, and the scores are within margin of error.

• Run 1 Graphics Details: 1920x1080 Fullscreen, Standard Preset
  • Score: 9066
• Run 2 Graphics Details: 2560x1600 Fullscreen, maximum settings, except NVIDIA proprietary technologies
  • Score: 4941

Commentary: The 1920x1080 Fullscreen, Standard Preset results are present for comparison purposes -- it's the most commonly tested configuration in reviews and in forums. Here is one such collection of results. A score of 9066 is in the ballpark, for instance, of an Intel Core i9-3930K with a desktop NVIDIA GTX 1070, an Intel Core i5-6500 with a desktop NVIDIA GTX 1080Ti, and, amusingly, an Intel Xeon E5-1680v2 with an NVIDIA TITAN X.

GTA V

• Credit: u/DMULLZ72
• RSR Configuration:
  • Graphical Details: 1920x1200, RSR
  • Graphical Preset: Maximum
  • FPS: 90-110
• Native Configuration:
  • Graphical Details: 2560x1600, no RSR
  • Graphical Preset: High
  • FPS: 70-80

Minecraft (non-raytracing)

• Credit: u/Tohkannon
• Graphical Details: "2K fancy settings"
• FPS: upward of 100 300 (!)

Commentary: The AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition 22.7.1 drivers claimed a 100% uplift in certain OpenGL games, most notably this one. This claim has been independently proven to be true with both desktop and mobile Radeon hardware.

The Surge 2

• Graphics Preset: Maximum
• No benchmark data, but this is clearly 60+ FPS
• BTW I love this game. Anyone who likes Soulslikes ought to give it and its predecessor a try.

But Can It Run Crysis?

• These days, you can play Doom Eternal on Samsung refrigerators, so ... go us?

Insert Random R17 Visual Novel Here

• Graphics Preset: WHERE_IS_THE_DEMOSAIC_PATCH.DLL
• No. Just no. Really no.

Stability

This has been the most stable my G14 has ever been. That's not saying much, though, because crashes were few and far in between even before my 313 saga. I would not use this as a reason to go to 313, as most people who do this have a very negative experience.

What About BIOS 312 and ...

... the Latest Stock AMD Chipset Drivers?

Several users have reported that these seem to have a dramatic effect on power consumption even with 312. I have not personally tested it or gathered telemetry on that BIOS, so I can't wholeheartedly recommend that course of action. Furthermore, u/MissusNesbitt points out that if you are on BIOS 313 and you update to these very same chipset drivers, your ability to roll back to BIOS 312 is compromised. Therefore, if you are going to install these drivers alongside BIOS 312, proceed with caution ... or better yet just stick with the ASUS-supplied chipset drivers.

... the Latest Stock AMD Radeon Drivers?

There have been many users who have successfully installed stock AMD Radeon drivers over the course of the G14's lifetime. Some of these efforts have been more successful than others, and there's even recently been a post by a user who claims to get better battery life using Radeon Adrenalin Edition 22.8.2 alongside BIOS 312. I categorically do not recommend this approach; if you are on BIOS 312 you should run an all-ASUS driver stack. Stock AMD Radeon drivers on BIOS 312 and below behave idiosyncratically; in some cases they seem to work fine, but in many other cases they causes an elevation in idle temperatures and power draw (yes, even with a drivers-only install), and in still other cases things appear to be fine at first but there is a large hit to both benchmarked and actual performance in games.

... Solving for World Peace?

312 is incapable of this, and 313 is more likely to cause a war than to stop one, but let's wait for 314. After all, world leaders come and go, but π is tasty and π is eternal.
... and now, back to your regularly scheduled programming ...

313 Theories

Disclaimer: this section is purely theory and conjecture, albeit based on the evidence I have.
When I first installed 313, new AMD PCI Express Upstream and Downstream Switch Ports were installed on my system. These are different from the internal mux that ASUS has built in to disable the discrete GPU when needed -- indeed these are generally found only when you need external PCI Express multiplexing. That is a prerequisite for Thunderbolt support. However, these ports aren't in an initializeable state and as such 313 has no Thunderbolt/USB4 support. This does likely mean, though, that ASUS is doing work toward enabling such support, this BIOS being one such step (albeit not a functional one).
When you're making major changes to the system like this, you're messing with the way that power works. That, I think, is the reason why 313 performs so poorly power-wise with the default ASUS power setup. ASUS would have done well to provide us with an updated power setup alongside this BIOS.
For a while I thought that this was the BIOS that enabled the installation of stock AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition drivers, but I've done some more analysis and I've gotten messages from some users -- and at current I believe that the most recent VBIOS update (9.6.1) contributes too. This VBIOS update is dated to March 2022, and I did not run that update until I did the 313 BIOS update as well (or shortly before). This is why I conflated the issue.
That being said, having obsessively tried to install the stock AMD Radeon Adrenalin Edition drivers over every BIOS release, I have found that even when it appears to install, it silently rolls back at least some (but not all) of the driver DLLs, leaving your install in an inconsistent, crash-prone state. You can check this by laboriously going through Device Manager and sifting through driver DLL versions. BIOS 313 has been the first BIOS in which that silent rollback has not occurred. These facts, combined with the absolutely stable experience I'm having with 22.8.2 with 313, suggest that ASUS is moving toward enabling stock AMD drivers for all.
The most damning evidence for the theory that this BIOS enables sweeping system changes -- and perhaps the greatest hope for the future -- comes from the Linux community. On Linux, BIOS 313 fixes a slew of AMDgpu-related crashes and also fixes a wide swath of bugs related to SoC power regulation. AMDgpu is AMD's open-source Radeon kernel driver) and its codebase is substantially the same as (and in sync with) AMD's Radeon Adrenalin Edition drivers for Windows. The fact that our Linux community was having persistent crashes in AMDgpu and often having the BIOS-313-on-Windows experience with all prior BIOS versions, this is convincing evidence of the following:

1. This BIOS has made fundamental changes to the underlying platform, as related to GPU and power regulation.
2. Mux functionality changes are in this BIOS, as evidenced by the wide classes of graphics issues on Linux that are now fixed.
3. The changes in this BIOS allow standard AMD Linux drivers to work, just as they appear to allow standard AMD Windows drivers to work.
4. Future revisions of the G14 BIOS will only build upon the foundational work of BIOS 313.

MissusNesbitt

On another note, the battery life complaints I'm seeing about 313 are related to how Armoury Crate enables "eco mode." With the old ASUS-cooked chipset and graphics drivers they had a vector for shutting down and "disconnecting" the dGPU via software. I'm guessing it's related to their MUX implementation, but now with the new chipset and GPU drivers Armoury Crate can no longer disconnect into a no power or low power state and the dGPU panics like when it doesn't have drivers installed or it's been disabled in device manager. The heat from the chassis and the piss poor battery life are in line with the dGPU still being active, despite being disconnected in Windows Device Manager.

Commentary: this is an astute and welcome observation. However, this phenomenon occurs on 313 even with a full ASUS driver stack. Combine this with the fact that this BIOS exposes a new set of PCI-E switch ports, and this theory about Armoury Crate not being able to properly do anything with the internal mux gains a whole new overtone.

Not 313 Related but Worth Noting

• If you think your speakers are suddenly producing much more muffled sound, make sure that Spatial Sound is off for your integrated speakers. Some users have reported that Dolby Atmos is defaulted to on, and for the speakers on the G14 you should never use it.
• If you hear crackling and sound skips only in games but not when playing music, Spatial Sound is also going to be your culprit there. If, for instance, you connect a Razer Kaira by way of the Xbox Wireless Adapter, and you have any Spatial Audio method on (including Windows Sonic, which Razer advertises as being compatible with the Kaira), you will have such high DPC latency that not only will the audio artifact, you'll get materially poorer performance in some games.
• If you are having WiFi issues, you will likely be told to replace your card with the Intel AX210. That's certainly a viable option, but there are also quite a few of us who are doing just fine with the MT7922. Either way, no matter what your WiFi card, remember that the chipsets are actually single-chip solutions for both WiFi and Bluetooth. Update both your WiFi and Bluetooth drivers, as you might wind up with coexistence issues if you do not. As of 29 August 2022, the most recent MT7922 WiFi drivers are from July 2022, and the most recent MT7922 BT drivers are from June 2022.
  • The drivers for the Mediatek WiFi + Bluetooth solution that ASUS posts aren't the latest by a long shot. It's hard to find updated reference drivers for it, as component manufacturers like Realtek and Mediatek generally only share reference drivers with their customers, and not with the customers of their customers. However, a kind soul on the ASUS ROG forums appears to have taken it upon himself to post these. Don't be fooled by the version number on these drivers -- they are indeed a good deal more recent than the drivers that ASUS provides.
  • Another alternative for more up-to-date drivers revolves around finding the latest drivers for devices that also use the MT7922 (which is also known as the RZ616). The Lenovo Thinkpad Z13 Gen 1 is a Ryzen 6000-based laptop which also sports the 7922. Driver links below:
    • WiFi drivers dated 3 September 2022
    • Bluetooth drivers dated 3 August 2022
• u/Summanis points out that WiFi SmartConnect -- which is a setting in MyAsus -- is the devil incarnate and is responsible for horrid WiFi performance degradation. Some users have reported that it appears to be checked by default, and others have reported checking it themselves. If you have this on, turn it off immediately.

Conclusions

There you have it -- now you know everything I know about 313 and how I got it to work well for my system. I must reiterate: if you aren't willing to live on the bleeding edge or if you have no real reason to go to 313, don't do it. Stay on 312, and stay on ASUS customized drivers. However, if you are willing to tread this path (of insanity), then feel free to contact me. Perhaps I'll be able to help you. Perhaps I won't. I can promise we will learn together and laugh together and communicate together, no matter what.
And since ASUS doesn't communicate with us, perhaps that is the great triumph we have as a community.

Contributing Authors

• u/nettleada -- intensive testing, battery draw analysis, intensive benchmarking
• u/Tohkannon -- testing, Minecraft benchmarking
• u/DMULLZ72 -- testing, battery draw analysis, GTA benchmarking
• u/Summanis -- testing, Radeon driver install error analysis, battery draw analysis, WIFI SMARTCONNECT IS THE DEVIL INCARNATE
• u/MissusNesbitt -- analysis of 313 internal mux and Armoury Crate, 312 graceful rollback analysis
• u/Radiant_Candidate_31 -- CS:GO benchmarking, intensive testing, battery draw analysis, WiFi defect analysis
• u/yayfurui -- 313 on Linux analysis
• u/sammilucia -- hard reset and factory reset information

Item Name:	IWC Pilot Spitfire IW326801 Full set
Price:	$3500
# of Spots:	100
Price Justification:	$3700 sold 6-9-22
Price Justification:	$3700 sold 4-18-22
Price Justification:	$3990 sold 4-16-22
Price Justification:	$3500 sold? 6-22
Call spots?	Y
Spot limit per person?	0
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA Only
Timestamp/pics:	Album and timestamp
Escrow:	Y coolest escrow jsk3 for Tefl0nDon
Description:	Here is your chance to get a great timepiece. IWC Pilot Spitfire ref IW326801 with the newer movement. The watch is in excellent condition. Bezel and case in are in excellent condition. Original crystal like new with no scratches or chips. Keeping excellent time and running great. Strap and buckle are in excellent condition. Comes as complete set with inner and outer box, warranty card dated Oct 2021(still under factory warranty) booklets and microfiber cloth

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
Cash App Info: PM ME
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
Number of vacant slots: 0
Number of unpaid users: 0
Number of unpaid slots: 0
This slot list is created and updated by The EDC Raffle Tool by BlobAndHisBoy.
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Item Name:	Tudor Black Bay 58 79030N Full Set
Price:	$3100
Number of Spots:	100 @ $31
Price Justification:	$3,050 7/25/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/w7uljo/wts_tudor_black_bay_58_79030n/
Price Justification:	$3,300 7/17/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/w1l078/wts_tudor_black_bay_58_blackgilt_mint_condition
Price Justification:	$2,950 7/21/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/w1l078/wts_tudor_black_bay_58_blackgilt_mint_condition/
Price Justification:	$2,850 7/17/22 https://www.watchuseek.com/threads/fs-tudor-black-bay-58-79030n.5422703/
Price Justification:	$3,300 on strap 7/20/22 https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=861641
Price Justification:	$2,850 7/14/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/vvuxjo/wts_tudor_black_bay_58_black_79030n_excellent/
Price Justification:	$2,999 7/7/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/vtmy7s/wts_tudor_black_bay_bb58_black_dial_reference/
Price Justification:	$3,400 7/7/22 https://www.rolexforums.com/showthread.php?t=860837
Price Justification:	$3,200 6/28/22 https://www.reddit.com/Watchexchange/comments/vjv9e2/wts_tudor_black_bay_58_79030n_3200/
Call spots?	Yes
Spot limit per person?	0
Location/Country:	USA
Will ship international?	USA only
Timestamp/pics:	album- https://imgur.com/a/74STio1
Escrow:	u/EliruleZ for u/fireeyes503
Description:	Tudor BB58 full set, includes inner and outer box, manuals, full links, AD warranty card dated Dec 2019. Under factory warranty until Dec 2024. Bracelet and watch have some desk diving scratches and marks but no deep dings or gouges. Runs strong and keeps excellent time.

PayPal Info: [REDACTED]
​
Tip BlobAndHisBoy
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