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This is a highly opinionated piece, coming from a digital nomad born and raised in KL. I have spent a few months travelling through Europe and Latin Americas, and I believe these are the key information you might want to know based on my experiences.
Is Kuala Lumpur for you?
Comparing against other nomad hot spots such as Thailand and Bali.
Pros: - Malaysians in general speak far better English than our neighbours except Singapore and Philippines.
- Extremely wide variety of foods compared to other ASEANs, to a point we are often compared to New York City in terms of cultural or culinary diversity.
- Malaysia is one of the safest countries you can visit. We are the 18th on Global Peace Index 2021. You are very unlikely to encounter violent crime here.
- Luxury condos with awesome view and infinity pools go very cheaply on Airbnb and Propertyguru.
Cons: - Malaysia is considerably more conservative. You are expected to dress modestly most of the time except in the nightlife areas. Public displays of affection like kissing lands you straight in jail.
- High taxes on alcohols and tobaccos. Malaysians tend to buy hard liquors upon arrival at the airport and pre-game with that before hitting night clubs.
If you are a foodie and don’t party a lot, you may enjoy KL more than in Thailand, Bali, and other neighbouring countries. You get to live in a developed cosmopolitan city at the same price.
BUT if you wish to party very wildly or enjoy sin entertainments at a low cost, Malaysia is not for you. Neighbourhoods to stay in
If you have kids and would like them to attend international schools, you should narrow down your choices to just
Mont Kiara and
Desa Parkcity.
If you like the convenience of transit oriented developments that usually come with huge shopping malls and train stations, consider:
- MRT Cochrane — Sunway Velocity mall, IKEA, MyTown all linked to the MRT station. 2 stops from downtown. Condos include: V Residence, UNA Serviced Apt.
- KL Eco City at LRT Abdullah Hukum — Connected to Mid Valley Megamall, has a WeWork, close to KL Sentral. Condos incl: Viia Residences, Vogue Suites.
- MRT Taman Mutiara — Ekocheras Residences, connected to 2 malls. A short drive away to Taman Connaught, Pandan Indah etc, where you can find plenty of Malaysian food choices. Perfect for those who want to stay close to downtown but not in it.
- MRT Surian — Tropicana Garden has some really luxurious and expensive condos in front of a golf course. A bit further away from downtown KL but there are plenty of things to do and eat in Petaling Jaya. Residents are almost all local and tend to speak English.
Where the KL expats usually stay:
- Mont Kiara. The go-to expat neighbourhood of KL, plenty of good korean and japanese restaurants, with upscale bars. The best condos are along Jalan Kiara.
- Uptown Damansara & TTDI. Surrounded by some of the most famous eateries, high-end bars, and big tech offices in Petaling Jaya.
- KL City Centre & Bukit Bintang. Downsides are constant traffic congestions, lack of good local food choices, and is overall rather sterile. There is a reason why the asking rents near KLCC are not much higher than other neighbourhoods above. Good condos include: Star Residences, Marc Residences, One KL, etc.
- Bangsar & Damansara Heights. Also dwelled by wealthy and powerful Malaysians, former prime ministers, politicians etc.
I personally prefer Sunway Velocity and Ekocheras because of their proximities to a plethora of good local foods within walking distances. They are only 2 and 6 stops away from Bt Bintang along the rather punctual MRT anyway.
Speaking of KL Condos
These days, most of the new condos come fully equipped with gyms, fiber internet, and infinity pools facing the city skyline.
Now when you are doing your searches on airbnb, how do you know if the condo is any good?
- Search “iherng condo_name” on YouTube. iherng is a youtuber that works for an interior design firm and he reviews plenty of the new condos in Malaysia.
- Find the condo on Google Maps and read the reviews, don’t forget to check the commute time to your places of interest, proximity to transit stations.
- Search “site:forum.lowyat.net condo_name” to see what owners talk about it.
SIM Cards
I highly recommend Yoodo, as of 2022Q4, you can buy 20GB for RM 20 — this is an unbeatable deal. Yoodo also runs on Celcom infrastructure, which is almost on par as Maxis, the best telco network in the country.
Download Yoodo app, get verified (takes 2 days), install their eSIM over the email, and buy the data + talktime before you arrive.
Cash
ATMs aren’t always the cheapest ways to get money here due to hidden spreads, consider Western Union too. Regardless of what your bank says, there is no free lunch on Earth, you may be getting unfavourable spreads when you withdraw cash abroad.
The cheapest way to get Malaysia Ringgit cash is by using the money changers at Midvalley Megamall basement.
The Midvalley money changers often charge a smaller spread than what even Transferwise card offers. You can just bring in a fat stack of your home currency be it USD/EUGBP/JPY and sell them here. I know this before I spent some time visiting them and calculating sell/buy spreads when I changed monies for my trip early this year.
The most famous changer is
SMZ at The Gardens basement, the next best options are the 3 changers beside Mark & Spencer at Megamall side across the basement.
Malaysia has high adoption of QR payment. Once you got a local phone number, you can open a Grab account and use GrabPay to make DuitNow QR payments to merchants.
Foods
This section can be endlessly long, so I will just explain the metagame instead of showing you any places.
- If you know any Malaysian friends, just ask them for recommendations, follow your friends’ anecdotal experiences and personal opinions before following the bloggers or “best of category” recommendations. From my experience, the “best of category” usually means the foods prepared differently but not are not something the locals eat daily.
- Hot take: Village Park at Uptown Damansara is merely a better Singapore nasi lemak — with fried chicken and dry rice. It’s a shop owned by chinese and the nasi lemaks served there deviate far from how the malays do it — usually with wet rendang chicken and wetter rice. The real daily nasi lemaks are those sold by roadside stalls, you can find them around office areas outside of Bukit Bintang MRT station exits at 7-9AM.
- Be willing to Grab out of the downtown. Malaysians don’t really live in the Golden Triangle and hence there aren’t a lot of authentic Malaysian foods to eat downtown. So be willing to go to neighbouring towns in Ampang, Cheras, Petaling Jaya etc to find good foods.
- Look out for weekly night markets (pasar malam) in the neighbourhoods, you can sample lots of lots of foods there. For example:
- Taman Connaught pasar malam every Wednesday
- SS2 Chow Yang pasar malam every Thursday
- Pandan Indah pasar malam every Friday
This is my list for newcomers, and if you need more, I highly recommend Food Ranger channel. He has stayed in Malaysia for about 2 years during the pandemic.
Transportations
Ride hailing: If you can’t get any 4-seaters at late night, instead of calling 4-seater plus/premium, just call a 6-seaters. Grab pretty much monopolised Malaysia market, if you can’t call a Grab in some places, you almost certainly can’t do it with AirAsia Ride and other smaller players.
Street hailing: Don’t even think about hailing a taxi off the street, KL taxis are daylight robbers and the raison d’etre of Grab.
As of 2022Q4, Grab is so cheap and so convenient it will likely be your primary mode of transport. But you may still want to live close to a MRT/LRT station just for you to have 2nd option to beat the jam in the city.
The good train lines: All LRT & MRT lines like Kelana Jaya, Putrajaya, Kajang, Ampang, Putra Height lines. Their frequency is high and cabins are comfortable.
The bad train lines: KL Monorail, all KTM commuter lines. Their frequency is too low to be useful.
Nightlife
In Kuala Lumpur, we have several main nightlife clusters:
- Changkat Bukit Bintang — The original, most popular nightlife area full of small clubs and bars. However Malaysians don’t usually come here.
- TREC KL — The new purpose-made complex for nightlife. This place has almost no beggars because its not possible to walk here from anywhere, you have to Grab/drive here. Goers are good mix of locals and foreigners.
- Jalan Petaling, especially Kwai Chai Hong and Jalan Sultan parallel to it. Famous bars include G-String and The Deceased. Goers are mostly Malaysians.
- Jalan Telawi at Bangsar.
- Desa Sri Hartamas near Mont Kiara.
Apart from clusters, some of the most popular dance clubs include:
- Spark at TREC (formerly Zouk KL).
- Kyo at Mandarin Oriental KLCC.
- Zouk at Genting Highlands.
General tips specific to Malaysia:
- If you want to get wasted cheaply, buy the duty free liquors at the airport upon arrival, pre-game with them before hitting the clubs. I don’t need to remind you of our hefty alcohol taxes.
- Kuala Lumpur and Selangor have different laws. For instance, you cannot buy alcohols in the convenience stores after certain hours. If you are not OK with this, consider living in Selangor surrounding KL instead, like in the city of Petaling Jaya.
- There are several duty free islands in Malaysia: Langkawi, Labuan, Pangkor, Tioman. It’s possible to smuggle cheap booze from Langkawi and Labuan by flight, they don’t check your bag in domestic terminals.
Halal Nightlife
For most Malaysians, alcohols are either prohibited or prohibitively expensive. So many of us just tend to chill at mamak restaurants.
Mamak restaurants are usually 24 hours joints run by Indian Muslims, selling mainly indian and malay foods, with non-alcoholic drinks and TV playing live football matches.
They are absolutely the best places to go after you leave the clubs, order a big plate of Maggi Goreng and a cup of Teh Tarik to sober up!
Dating
Bars — Drinking out in Malaysia is prohibitively expensive for most people, so Malaysian girls don’t usually go to bars to get picked up by men. Most often they go there for special occasions.
Dating Apps — Malaysian girls use dating apps extensively, the English-speaking ones tend to use Coffee Meet Bagel and Bumble the most. The Chinese-speaking ones like to use Paktor and TanTan.
JIS Bar at Jalan Yap Kwan Seng — My friends and I have the best time here meeting women. It’s a novel Japanese bar that allows women to enter and drink for free, whereas men have to pay for every minute spent inside there. The staffs then act as matchmakers, putting men and women together in sharing tables, drink & chat together, play games etc. Tips:
- For women: it’s a safe place to go. Staffs keep watchful eyes on the whole place the whole time. Men who touch get bounced.
- Men: Go with 2 or 3 other friends to wing each other. It’s mainly a place where you talk and not dance.
- Read their dress code on Instagram and the website. Dress to impress there.
- Best time to enter: Friday & Saturday 9-11PM. You can go there before hitting Kyo club or other nightlife areas nearby.
Locals highly appreciate it when foreigners make an effort to blend in, so try learning some
Malaysian English phrases, you will come off less foreign and impress the girls here.
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